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Post by Corby on Apr 4, 2015 20:18:03 GMT -6
All these kinda make me wanna go back to GF less status.....fffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu I actually love my GF, so will not happen... but still, i may be a little jealous. i always wanted to restore an A model. Just make sure she understands there's another woman. Never hurt to have an iron mistress. Thing is. i'm already poor as fuck and can barely afford what all i have. i can afford them, but not more. Guess i'll just keep my life level
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Post by Hillbilly on Apr 5, 2015 7:02:27 GMT -6
Just make sure she understands there's another woman. Never hurt to have an iron mistress. Thing is. i'm already poor as fuck and can barely afford what all i have. i can afford them, but not more. Guess i'll just keep my life level Thought you were making bank with Robert?
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Post by Chris on Apr 5, 2015 8:10:14 GMT -6
Damn flight, you seem like a skilled mechanic. Some good work going on here. Good job!
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Post by Corby on Apr 5, 2015 8:36:48 GMT -6
Thing is. i'm already poor as fuck and can barely afford what all i have. i can afford them, but not more. Guess i'll just keep my life level Thought you were making bank with Robert? i'll have plenty of loose cash when women starts working again. she's back to school, so i took all of our spending so she doesnt have to worry about but school and grades. And there's maybe a mini me under way... we arent sure just yet
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Mr. D
Diesel Jockey
Fuckery, Fuckery Everywhere
Posts: 1,597
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Post by Mr. D on Apr 5, 2015 9:15:49 GMT -6
Thought you were making bank with Robert? And there's maybe a mini me under way... we arent sure just yet No, please no, no corby jr's running around here plz If there is name it Aaron jk lol
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Post by Corby on Apr 5, 2015 11:21:31 GMT -6
And there's maybe a mini me under way... we arent sure just yet No, please no, no corby jr's running around here plz If there is name it Aaron jk lol if it's a boy, either Aaron or Jeremy. LOL but we'll see. she already lost one in the first 3 months...
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359er
Gold Certificate Member
The TMS Bed Bug
#RadOutGranma
Posts: 3,177
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Post by 359er on Apr 29, 2015 0:58:09 GMT -6
Here's what I've been up to the past few months. When I took the rear end out and the driveshaft, I had to cut the rear yoke out of the front differential to get the short shaft out. The driveshaft also turned out to be shit, which I expected. Anyways, I took the rear end to Inland Truck Parts to be rebuilt. Inland has locations all over the Midwest and are pretty reputable. I dropped it off, in 3 days they called me and told me it was done and ready to be picked up. Turns out, the only thing that was wrong with the differential was the bolts holding the ring gear in place, sheared off. Basically the ring gear was just spinning around in there. A $36 fix, plus $200 in labor. Anyways, the short shaft cost $680, but it's brand new, custom built for the truck. The yoke and seal for the front differential was $250. I made out for a little under $1,100 from Inland. That's not to mention the $430 in Lucas 75W-90 gear oil for the differentials. I filled the rear with 5 gallons and thought I'd better pull the front one and see what shape it was in.......it had MAYBE 3 quarts in it...so it got 5 gallons too... There's the new yoke, seal, and temp sending unit. Putting the rear back in, not enough clearance to put it on a transmission jack, so we used a cherry picker and lifted it up through the gap between the 5th wheel plate and the rear housing. I made some home made studs to slide in the housing to get it lined up and get everything siliconed up before pushing it into the housing. Got the hubs cleaned off for the axle gaskets. Used an air grinder with a wire wheel. When I took the rear end out, I took 3 of the small hole Pete wheels, busted the tires off and had them machine polished. I have an international wheel I've been meaning to swap out with another small hole to have polished where I have a matching set to put the new tires on. When I get the tires, I'll single the truck out, take the set on it now, off, and take them to get done. Anyways, here's what 3 of my wheels look like. This weekend I also put a new boot and boot ring on. I had a freightliner ring that was just sitting on the floor. I took that POS off and bought a 359 boot and ring. After I got everything back up and running Sunday night. Notice how my back axles are singled out, when I get new tires for the polished wheels, I'm having those done. I also spent most of sunday chasing wiring. After 3 hours of wanting to pull my hair out and shoot shit, I'm happy to say, the jake is fixed. Also, anyone that has a 359, could you crack the dash open and look at wire 223? I have no idea where it goes and I think it's completing a circuit. Anything I wire it into, is just like turning the key. If I wire it into the headlight switch and flip the switch, all the electronics, radio, low air alarm, all that shit comes on. I think the wire is orange and black if I remember right. I need to buy a damn wiring diagram...
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Post by Nathan P. on Apr 29, 2015 14:44:35 GMT -6
Sounds like it's the first position on the key switch after the off position, or if you turn the key back past the off position. Definitely sounds like an aux power wire for sure.
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Post by Hillbilly on Apr 29, 2015 16:50:34 GMT -6
Hey how much did it cost to get them machine polished?
Trucks comin along bro
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359er
Gold Certificate Member
The TMS Bed Bug
#RadOutGranma
Posts: 3,177
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Post by 359er on Apr 30, 2015 0:03:00 GMT -6
Sounds like it's the first position on the key switch after the off position, or if you turn the key back past the off position. Definitely sounds like an aux power wire for sure. You know, I've never turned the key the opposite direction to be able to tell you. The wire has a factory crimp on it and ends right behind the headlight/marker light switches and is part of that harness. I've been meaning to buy a diagram but have just been putting it off. I'm very thankful all of the electronics on that truck are simple. HillbillyI took them to a local place not too far away from me. www.elitepolishingco.com/The base is $35 a wheel, as bad off as mine were he charged me $65 for the first 3, and anything else I bring back in that bad of condition is $50 inside and out. I say machine polished, I don't really think they put them on the big machine that rotates them, I think they just ran through them with buffers. I'm not sure they down one of the machines. You can still see some of the compound in them if you get close, but I can work that out where you'll never notice it. Overall, I'm happy with how they came out. They're 100% better than they were when they went down.
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Game
Gear Grinder
Posts: 54
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Post by Game on Apr 30, 2015 2:12:49 GMT -6
Truck's looking nice!
How much did you pay for the short hood? Still got the hood?
Oh, and are the stacks under the cab on your 84? If so, I'm going to take a guess and say it used to be a car hauler.
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Mr. D
Diesel Jockey
Fuckery, Fuckery Everywhere
Posts: 1,597
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Post by Mr. D on Apr 30, 2015 4:52:09 GMT -6
That wire does sound like an Aux power wire to me too. When one of the 385's here had to have a rewire in the dash the guy that was doing it did something similar and everything on the truck went wonky.
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Post by 1FatPriest on Apr 30, 2015 6:32:26 GMT -6
Truck's looking nice! How much did you pay for the short hood? Still got the hood? Oh, and are the stacks under the cab on your 84? If so, I'm going to take a guess and say it used to be a car hauler. I was thinking the same thing as I look at pictures that it could have possibly been a carhauler
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Post by Nathan P. on Apr 30, 2015 7:11:19 GMT -6
Sounds like it's the first position on the key switch after the off position, or if you turn the key back past the off position. Definitely sounds like an aux power wire for sure. You know, I've never turned the key the opposite direction to be able to tell you. The wire has a factory crimp on it and ends right behind the headlight/marker light switches and is part of that harness. I've been meaning to buy a diagram but have just been putting it off. I'm very thankful all of the electronics on that truck are simple. HillbillyI took them to a local place not too far away from me. www.elitepolishingco.com/The base is $35 a wheel, as bad off as mine were he charged me $65 for the first 3, and anything else I bring back in that bad of condition is $50 inside and out. I say machine polished, I don't really think they put them on the big machine that rotates them, I think they just ran through them with buffers. I'm not sure they down one of the machines. You can still see some of the compound in them if you get close, but I can work that out where you'll never notice it. Overall, I'm happy with how they came out. They're 100% better than they were when they went down. Is it possible that you have a positive and negative stud inside the dash somewhere? I know some new peterbolts have them can say for sure about yours. If that's where the wire ends, I'd try looking for a stud or see if the wire was pulled back in the dash.
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359er
Gold Certificate Member
The TMS Bed Bug
#RadOutGranma
Posts: 3,177
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Post by 359er on May 1, 2015 0:51:46 GMT -6
I'm going to buy a diagram in time.
It was never a car hauler. It was a factory daycab. It had stacks, but they took those off when they put the sleeper on. The tank on the drivers side is hugging the battery box, which keeps me from putting stacks on the current setup. I'm trying to find a way to fix that temporarily. I think the original stacks were run up through the frame rails onto the back of the cab, sort of like newer daycabs and shit are, where they're mounted to the back vs the corners. I still can't find any pics of it from the 80's. I'm still looking though.
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Post by Aaron D on May 4, 2015 21:20:22 GMT -6
I'm going to buy a diagram in time. It was never a car hauler. It was a factory daycab. It had stacks, but they took those off when they put the sleeper on. The tank on the drivers side is hugging the battery box, which keeps me from putting stacks on the current setup. I'm trying to find a way to fix that temporarily. I think the original stacks were run up through the frame rails onto the back of the cab, sort of like newer daycabs and shit are, where they're mounted to the back vs the corners. I still can't find any pics of it from the 80's. I'm still looking though. I got a guy that might be able to help you.
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359er
Gold Certificate Member
The TMS Bed Bug
#RadOutGranma
Posts: 3,177
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Post by 359er on May 4, 2015 23:10:58 GMT -6
I'm going to buy a diagram in time. It was never a car hauler. It was a factory daycab. It had stacks, but they took those off when they put the sleeper on. The tank on the drivers side is hugging the battery box, which keeps me from putting stacks on the current setup. I'm trying to find a way to fix that temporarily. I think the original stacks were run up through the frame rails onto the back of the cab, sort of like newer daycabs and shit are, where they're mounted to the back vs the corners. I still can't find any pics of it from the 80's. I'm still looking though. I got a guy that might be able to help you. Please, go on...
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Drew
Gear Grinder
#119
Posts: 65
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Post by Drew on May 5, 2015 15:11:04 GMT -6
Here's what I've been up to the past few months. When I took the rear end out and the driveshaft, I had to cut the rear yoke out of the front differential to get the short shaft out. The driveshaft also turned out to be shit, which I expected. Anyways, I took the rear end to Inland Truck Parts to be rebuilt. Inland has locations all over the Midwest and are pretty reputable. I dropped it off, in 3 days they called me and told me it was done and ready to be picked up. Turns out, the only thing that was wrong with the differential was the bolts holding the ring gear in place, sheared off. Basically the ring gear was just spinning around in there. A $36 fix, plus $200 in labor. Anyways, the short shaft cost $680, but it's brand new, custom built for the truck. The yoke and seal for the front differential was $250. I made out for a little under $1,100 from Inland. That's not to mention the $430 in Lucas 75W-90 gear oil for the differentials. I filled the rear with 5 gallons and thought I'd better pull the front one and see what shape it was in.......it had MAYBE 3 quarts in it...so it got 5 gallons too... Trucks coming along well man. Looking forward to it being completed. For anyone wanting to restore anything, whether it be a truck, car, whatever, take what you want to spend and multiply it by 3. Learned that with a '68 Camaro my dad and I have been restoring for the past 8 years. Money spent everywhere and on everything haha, adds up real fast. Do you plan on showing it?
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359er
Gold Certificate Member
The TMS Bed Bug
#RadOutGranma
Posts: 3,177
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Post by 359er on May 5, 2015 22:44:02 GMT -6
Here's what I've been up to the past few months. When I took the rear end out and the driveshaft, I had to cut the rear yoke out of the front differential to get the short shaft out. The driveshaft also turned out to be shit, which I expected. Anyways, I took the rear end to Inland Truck Parts to be rebuilt. Inland has locations all over the Midwest and are pretty reputable. I dropped it off, in 3 days they called me and told me it was done and ready to be picked up. Turns out, the only thing that was wrong with the differential was the bolts holding the ring gear in place, sheared off. Basically the ring gear was just spinning around in there. A $36 fix, plus $200 in labor. Anyways, the short shaft cost $680, but it's brand new, custom built for the truck. The yoke and seal for the front differential was $250. I made out for a little under $1,100 from Inland. That's not to mention the $430 in Lucas 75W-90 gear oil for the differentials. I filled the rear with 5 gallons and thought I'd better pull the front one and see what shape it was in.......it had MAYBE 3 quarts in it...so it got 5 gallons too... Trucks coming along well man. Looking forward to it being completed. For anyone wanting to restore anything, whether it be a truck, car, whatever, take what you want to spend and multiply it by 3. Learned that with a '68 Camaro my dad and I have been restoring for the past 8 years. Money spent everywhere and on everything haha, adds up real fast. Do you plan on showing it? That ain't no shit! I just spent $90 today just on LED dash lights. I bought out all the chrome shop had and I still need 2 more. And yes, it'll be a working show truck.
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Drew
Gear Grinder
#119
Posts: 65
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Post by Drew on May 5, 2015 22:56:05 GMT -6
Trucks coming along well man. Looking forward to it being completed. For anyone wanting to restore anything, whether it be a truck, car, whatever, take what you want to spend and multiply it by 3. Learned that with a '68 Camaro my dad and I have been restoring for the past 8 years. Money spent everywhere and on everything haha, adds up real fast. Do you plan on showing it? That ain't no shit! I just spent $90 today just on LED dash lights. I bought out all the chrome shop had and I still need 2 more. And yes, it'll be a working show truck. Ah, its worth it in the end for sure though. Good deal man, looking forward to seeing it at a show in the future.
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359er
Gold Certificate Member
The TMS Bed Bug
#RadOutGranma
Posts: 3,177
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Post by 359er on May 5, 2015 23:02:29 GMT -6
That ain't no shit! I just spent $90 today just on LED dash lights. I bought out all the chrome shop had and I still need 2 more. And yes, it'll be a working show truck. Ah, its worth it in the end for sure though. Good deal man, looking forward to seeing it at a show in the future. I'm going to put my 29" tanks and the 63" flat top on it pretty soon just to change the look up some. I'm going to get it looking cool before I buy the frame rails, as I have no place to build the frame right now. Going to put the tanks on, sleeper, visor, bumper, vortox's, and 8" Dynaflex's. And a wing too. Can't forget the wing. I'm going to do all of that to get it looking pretty cool, then go through the cab interior, new roof cap, get the dash leather wrapped, new dash panels, etc. Also going with 379X fenders. By this time next year, it'll look like a totally different truck.
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Drew
Gear Grinder
#119
Posts: 65
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Post by Drew on May 5, 2015 23:08:38 GMT -6
Ah, its worth it in the end for sure though. Good deal man, looking forward to seeing it at a show in the future. I'm going to put my 29" tanks and the 63" flat top on it pretty soon just to change the look up some. I'm going to get it looking cool before I buy the frame rails, as I have no place to build the frame right now. Going to put the tanks on, sleeper, visor, bumper, vortox's, and 8" Dynaflex's. And a wing too. Can't forget the wing. I'm going to do all of that to get it looking pretty cool, then go through the cab interior, new roof cap, get the dash leather wrapped, new dash panels, etc. Also going with 379X fenders. By this time next year, it'll look like a totally different truck. Sounds like a plan for sure! What's your plans paint wise?
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359er
Gold Certificate Member
The TMS Bed Bug
#RadOutGranma
Posts: 3,177
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Post by 359er on May 5, 2015 23:17:00 GMT -6
I'm going to put my 29" tanks and the 63" flat top on it pretty soon just to change the look up some. I'm going to get it looking cool before I buy the frame rails, as I have no place to build the frame right now. Going to put the tanks on, sleeper, visor, bumper, vortox's, and 8" Dynaflex's. And a wing too. Can't forget the wing. I'm going to do all of that to get it looking pretty cool, then go through the cab interior, new roof cap, get the dash leather wrapped, new dash panels, etc. Also going with 379X fenders. By this time next year, it'll look like a totally different truck. Sounds like a plan for sure! What's your plans paint wise? When I get everything on it while I'm waiting to assemble the frame, I'm going with a primer black. When it's all said and done, with the Double Eagle on, 320' WB and ready to go, either gloss black or midnight blue with the 2-tone 359 style swoop with the swoop stretched out across the Double Eagle. Frame will be rhino lined blue.
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359er
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Post by 359er on May 5, 2015 23:56:00 GMT -6
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 6, 2015 0:05:26 GMT -6
Nice work on the truck it will look great with the new tanks and even better once you figure out pluming the exhaust and get a pair of stacks.
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